Last week, my husband Matt, sausage dog Marcello, and I embarked on a pilgrimage, leaving behind the fresco-adorned apartment we recently renovated in a 16th century palazzo. For those new to our story, after traveling nomadically for seven years, we have (finally) dropped those backpacks and taken up full-time residency in the historic center of Lucca. Now I find my globetrotting partner reluctant even to take a staycation across town. Why can’t we sleep in our own bed, he whined after I proposed the getaway. Knowing that ‘we’ means he and the pup, and that neither can resist a challenge, I replied, because we need to wake up to the city from a different perspective. Isn’t that the reason we travel?

Thanks to a generous surprise from an aunt and uncle, we were gifted this grand Lucca-style staycation. Yet he was quick to point out that Lucca’s historic Grand Universe Hotel, beautifully renovated and reopened as a part of the Autograph Collection, is an eight-minute walk along an old Roman road from our front door. How can that perspective possibly be different, he argued. Then I placed a bottle-of-wine-bet on gaining invaluable insights into our adopted city. Sangiovese, he asked. We have a deal.

And I was unexpectedly giddy. As if traveling to Rome or Venice for the first time. After becoming residents of Lucca, even travel pros like us have fallen into a comfortable routine. We eat in the same handful of restaurants. We meet friends for drinks in one of two go-to bars. We have coffee in the same café every morning, usually at the same table!

If we were to put aside our usual routine to explore only concierge recommendations, would we discover new favorite places and activities? Or must I hear about losing the bet, every day, for the next decade?

Well, i miei amici // my friends, I’ll cut to the chase.

…

I lost the bet.

How is that possible?

As soon as we sauntered into the elegant, art-filled lobby and were greeted by the engaging staff, our perspective did indeed begin to shift. Instead of focusing outwardly on what Lucca has to offer, we were drawn inward. What does the Grand Universe have to offer? And what does the experience convey to those visiting Lucca? After all, this is the first impression many visitors have when arriving to this magical city. How does the hotel set the tone for all that they will come to experience in the wider city and region?

For the next five days, I left the hotel only for dog walks, training runs, and to attend driving school (another article on that illustrious topic coming soon). We chatted over breakfast in the dining room with a veritable United Nations of guests, though surprisingly many were Italian business travelers . Each evening, we invited a local friend or two to take aperitivi with us in the bar, in most cases it was their first time venturing inside the hotel. We also had dinner in the Legacy Restaurant every evening. I even skipped my usual gym routine to climb the hotel stairs to the 4th floor and lift weights in the aptly named Forte (strong) workout room.

Mostly I spent my days, sporting a plush bathrobe and slippers, while writing away at my laptop positioned on the window ledge of our two-level loft suite. I’d take breaks from my personal writing retreat to stare out the window onto Garibaldi’s statue and the historic theatre and wonder how much of the palazzo’s storied past translates to modern visitors. Do they know that a King slept here? And by that I mean jazz legend Chet Baker. And, yes, there was also Victor Emmanuel II, Italy’s first king.

Modern luxury meets historic bones
As with most architecture in Lucca, this site is built on Roman ruins below, yet ever destined to stretch skyward through the grandiose ambitions of centuries to come. The palazzo originally came to life as a private home for a noble family in the 17th century when oneupmanship was expressed through the height of your windows and width of your entryway. The coveted position across from a renowned opera house, made the site perfect for the transition into Lucca’s first luxury hotel. The Hotel Universo e Tosca opened its doors in 1857, mere years before Garibaldi and his ragtag team of soldiers helped to bring about a united Italy and Victor Emmanuel II became the first King.

Decades later, Lucca’s favorite son, composer Giacomo Puccini, would also be a frequent, heralded guest when his operas were in season. And that artistic lineage stretched all the way into the 1960s when Baker famously took up residency.

Here are a few images from the La Nazione newspaper archives, along with a whimsicle photo that I snapped last week – one that I hope gives you a smile.

Of course, not everyone is a dork like me. Today, most visitors are more concerned with comfortable beds, plentiful breakfasts, and reliable WIFI than a building’s heritage. Matt and I had joked that if the bed wasn’t comfortable, we wouldn’t hesitate to make the oh-so strenuous trek back to our own home. I’m happy to report that after sleeping like babies the first night, we unpacked our bag and committed to truly staying in the ‘cation.

Breakfasts were indeed plentiful and there were also a few standout dishes on the dinner menu. For me, two dishes in particular stack up to any restaurant in town. Golden, lightly-fried polenta topped with chunky pieces of baccala. And an innovative presentation of spinach ravioli resting atop a thin glazing of spicy Livorno-style cacciucco fish stew. Both dishes illustrate the mastery of using just the right amount of fresh, top-notch ingredients. Not too much, nor too little. A balance of flavors and textures. Overall, we were impressed. And, then there’s the wine selection! My amateur sommelier husband gives his seal of approval.

Speaking of ‘in the glass’, the highlight of our stay was a visit to the rooftop! The SOMMITÀ MARTIN ORSYN CHAMPAGNE-branded bar perched atop the palazzo is a true treat, especially in glowing afternoon light. The panoramic view over the city’s rooftops, onto the Renaissance walls, and into the surrounding countryside and mountains is truly noteworthy. Plus, you know…champagne!

You don’t have to step foot in the lobby to know that the Grand has a lot going for it. But here’s the thing. What truly sets the Grand Universe apart isn’t good food or epic views. It’s the people. (Isn’t it always the people?)

From Alessandro who’s been working in the industry for 35 years (and makes the best spritz in town) to his young protege Giacomo who had been on the job for three whole days when we met. Then there’s the operations manager Antonia who sets the bar high as she engages with visitors, always with a smile or laugh. Her entire team in reception takes genuine interest in what you hope to discover and enjoy in Lucca.

As we’ve reflected on our experience last week in the universe created inside the Grand Universe, the key takeaway is this:

What a gracious and engaging entry for visitors to Lucca and how lucky we are as residents to be able to stroll over for a spritz.

And that’s a pilgrimage we will make, and often!