Lucca is known as “the city of 100 churches,” and while that label fits, another bountiful asset draws us readers like winged creatures to a glowing book light. Lucca loves literature (almost) as much as opera – and that says something considering the local calendar is plump with events showcasing the works of native son Giacomo Puccini.
Along the historic streets, independent booksellers thrive alongside Italian mainstays. Author readings and book signings are as plentiful as restaurants serving tordelli lucchesi. And festivals such as the world-famous Lucca Comics & Games and the innovative Citta di Carta (Paper Festival) bring authors to the forefront, giving voice to a diverse range of talent.
A central gathering place within the famously fortified Renaissance walls is called La Piazzetta del Libro, the small square of the book, with open-air stalls spanning the spectrum of printed word from weighty art and history tomes to vintage and contemporary comics. Take a coffee and pastry here, from historic Pasticceria Pinelli, and you’ll feel the pulse of local life while fueling up for a hunt for beautifully bound treasures.
In that spirit of discovery, I’m sharing some of my favorite book haunts, but please realize this only scratches the rich surface. Your suggestions and comments are welcome. Because if there’s one characteristic that unites book lovers like us, it is an unsatiable thirst for knowledge and growth.
A Book Lover’s Guide to Lucca, Italy
For every lover of good reads, the authors who create them, and the shops that support them.
BROWSE
Etta’s English Bookshop – Book lovers can sniff out a true haven before a foot crosses the threshold. And much like the independent shop in Via San Paolino’s feline namesake, you could while away hours in the cozy setting. Gems include beautifully bound classics, a head-spinning array of Italy-centric reads, and a curated selection of lovingly used books.
MFP Maria Pacini Fazzi – Another superb shop is the atelier of the late editor and publisher Maria Pacini Fazzi, located in Via Sant’ Andrea. Founded in 1966, this beloved shop features works spotlighting the history and art of Lucca and Tuscany, along with cookbooks, maps, curiosities, and so much more.
Mondadori Bookstore & Caffe – Located inside a 16th-century palazzo where two Roman-era roads meet, browsing comes with a bonus for classical architecture buffs. Marble columns rise to meet the exquisite arched ceiling, giving a grandiose vibe to even the most banal bestseller (I could name names). Stone benches line the exterior, providing an ideal place to enjoy a gelato from Gelati di Piero while admiring your new reads.
Feltrinelli Librerie – While a relatively new addition to Lucca’s reading scene, the roots of this Italian stalwart run deep, with the first retail outlet opening in Pisa in 1957 and the Feltrinelli publishing division launching what would become an Italian classic (and one of my all-time favs), Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s The Leopard, in 1958. There’s a good selection of international bestsellers in English, along with an impressive kids’ zone.
Libreria Pensiere Belli Lucca – Specializing in books and games for teens and kids, this is my go-to shop when I need that perfect gift. My problem is I can never leave without buying something for myself, too. #goodproblems. Beautifully illustrated books lure you in and literally open your wallet wide. And it’s worth every euro.
Il Collezionista Comic Book Store – Celebrating its 50th anniversary, this comic and manga hotspot near Piazza S. Giusto, revels in what it calls “nerd culture.” Featuring Italian, American, French, and Japanese comics, along with board and card games, stamps, and collectables, it’s joy to peruse.
Daris Libri – As eclectic and dusty as you’d hope from a shop located in the medieval quarter and specializing in antique books and prints. The charming space in Via del Gallo is quintessential Lucca and a can’t miss destination.
READ
The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca by Brian R. Lindquist – I wonder if there exists a bookshelf within the homes of Lucca’s English-speaking population not graced by a copy of The Wanderer’s Guide. Claiming to be the definitive guide to the town, the author gifted us with a whopping 360+ pages, divided into sections on churches, palazzi, families, streets, and the walls. Perhaps it’s too deep a dive for the casual visitor, but for anyone who spends significant time in Lucca, this is a wonderful resource.
Lucca Play with the City: 4 Games for the Whole Family by Matteo Mattei – A sweet and insightful activity book focused on important places and events in the city’s history. It’s almost painful when you must tear the pages apart to build cards for the game itineraries and treasure hunts. What a fun way for kids and parents to learn about Lucca’s legends and symbols!
The Lucca Comic Book Mysteries and Legends by Rugiada Salom – Speaking of Lucca legends, it’s impossible to understand this city without appreciating the art of comics and graphic novels. What better way to introduce some of Lucca’s most beloved characters and tales than through this beautifully presented graphic art book. You’ll meet Ilaria del Carretto, second wife of wealthy merchant Paolo Guinigi, and begin to view his tree-topped Guinigi Tower through new eyes. And you’ll never see the Botanical Gardens in the same light after reading the legend of 17th-century noblewoman Lucida Mansi.
Italian Cookbook Series, Pacini Fazzi by various authors – With titles like Farro All Spelt Recipes, Cooking with Olive Oil, and Traditional Recipes of Lucchesian Farmers, you can see why these bite-sized pamphlets are culinary gold. Available in English and Italian, these are the ideal gift for your foodie friends.
This section is a work in progress. Have a favorite read about or set in Lucca? Please comment below or send me a message. This is a community project!
ENGAGE
Biblioteca Agora – That Lucca’s main public library is housed in a 14th-century convent is attraction enough. But this community resource, with welcoming seating areas to peruse materials, is deeply engaged in current learning and growth with a roster of events for all ages. On Saturday mornings, Italian and English speakers meet for “speed dating” style language-learning exchange. There are reading groups for kids, parents, and fantasy fans. There’s even a new knitting club (hey, reading adjacent!)
Etta’s Silent Book Club – When one of my HomeExchange guests mentioned that she organizes a silent book club back home in California and would like to host a pop-up event in Lucca, I introduced her to the proprietor of Etta’s, and together they manifested a beautiful addition to Lucca’s cultural calendar. These monthly, winter-time-only, reading events fill up fast. (P.s. Stay tuned for more tips on why you should visit Lucca in off-season).
Shut Up and Write! – And speaking of new initiatives, yours truly is launching a Lucca chapter of the global writing community Shut Up and Write! It’s free and open to all writers, even those visiting for a few days. The aim is to bring together all sorts of us to simply…write. There are no read-alouds or critiques. No requirement to explain your work. We come together to keep each other motivated and accountable by writing, together, in silence for one precious hour. Email me if interested in more information.
Le Mura / The Walls of Lucca – And what story about book lovers is complete without a focus on setting? And by setting, I mean, the place where you park your behind and snuggle into your book. Lucca excels in this area.
If I had a dollar for every time a visitor has said to me, “If I lived here, I would sit on a bench under the trees and read for hours,” well, I’d buy more books with those dollars. And you, dearest traveler, should give yourself over to one of life’s greatest luxuries:
Ditch the tourist itinerary and plop down on that bench.
Running over two and a half miles around, the garden oasis atop the fortified walls is the ideal setting for all good reads.
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Thanks for reading, fellow book lovers! Be sure to comment and say hello.
